Each Cook Should Learn At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on List of London’s Leading Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.